Horween Derby

Horween Derby Leather is a vegetable-tanned full-grain leather that’s heavily stuffed with waxes and fats so it makes hearty watch straps that are supple and resistant to the elements.

Where is Horween Derby leather from?

Derby Leather comes from the Horween Tannery in Chicago, IL USA. Horween was founded over 113 years ago and is the oldest tannery in the United States. Horween produces many famous tannages including leather for regulation NFL footballs and NBA basketballs, Shell Cordovan, and Derby/Dublin..

What is the finish of Horween Derby leather?

Derby leather has a semi-smooth, low gloss finish with occasional wrinkles on some parts of the hide. Derby is a vegetable tanned full grain leather that is heavily stuffed with waxes and fats. This high fat and wax content is responsible for Dublin’s, and to a lesser degree, Derby’s “pull-up” effect. Pull-up is the temporary shift in color that occurs when a leather is flexed due to the displacement of the internal oils and waxes.

What is the temper of Horween Derby leather?

Derby leather is of a medium-soft temper. It is supple due to the high fat and wax content. Derby is essentially Dublin leather that has been tumbled to add suppleness and texture.

How does Horween Derby leather age?

Derby ages more gradually than the Italian vegetable tanned leathers. This is in part due to its somewhat weather proof nature. The grain of this leather is protected by the large amount of fats and waxes introduced via the hot-stuffing process, so it is less influenced by abrasion. Derby will eventually darken with use however.


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